Friday, 20 September 2013

Fashion Friday: London Fashion Week

Seeing as I did a round up several of the major shows at New York fashion week for the last Fashion Friday, I thought it was only right to do the same for London fashion week for this week's Fashion Friday. I'm sure that there were so many more shows at LFW than NYFW but that may be just me, so I have tried to write about most of the major shows but I have also included a few of my favourites and brilliant collections which I have just discovered. As I said last week, if you want to see all the shows or more pictures of the collections I have featured head over to Vogue. Be sure to come back again next week for a round up of Milan fashion week which is already underway.

A cool collection in monochrome, Simone Rocha's collection is feminine but hard edged. My favourite part of the collection are the pearls arranged in the shape of flowers around necklines, hemlines and pockets, they even appear as necklaces and on shoes; you have to look closely or you'll miss them.

A lesser known designer that I think should be better known; Huishan Zhang's S/S 14 collection is a wonderful combination of fabrics, embellishment and technique. It combines delicate cut away detail and intricate lace with zingy colours. Some of the pieces remind me of some of Erdem's earlier collections but Huishan Zhang's collection has its own very distinct style as well.

The Burberry Prorsum S/S 14 collection is like being in a sweet shop thanks to the candy colours and gorgeous fabrics. Of course, it wouldn't be a Burberry collection without several coats making an appearance and there really is no one who can do coats better.

At first glance this doesn't seem much like an Erdem collection at all, there aren't the strikingly beautiful florals and the collection is absent of the usual delicate colour palette, instead it is created mostly in monochrome. But you have to more carefully to see traces of Erdem's signature style come through. The florals appear in white on white and black on black embroidery on chiffon and some are a small splash of colour against black. Lace is used subtly, underneath layers of sheer fabric and as trousers underneath a lightweight sheer skirt. I love the fabric printed with old fashioned handwriting.

A collection for the young or young at heart Moschino Cheap & Chic S/S 14 is full of bright colours, cute embellishments and playful cuts. Gobstopper sized gems glisten on the neckline of a twist on the classic Chanel tweed jacket. There is no shortage of colour in this collection and with a bit of white added in to the mix, colourful flower embellishments really make a statement. With the word 'party' emblazoned on the front of a clutch bag, there can be no doubts about what the Moschino girl will be doing next summer.

Mary Katrantzou is the absolute Queen of prints and following in the footsteps of her previous collections S/S 14 is not for the wallflowers. Loud prints are paired with other loud prints and enhanced with beading and oversized ruffles for a collection which really nails the head to toe print look. The collection began with more subdued prints and ended with a bright riot of colour and pattern.

Alice Temperley creates the dresses of dreams for her label Temperley London. They are the kind of dresses you would rarely have the occasion to wear but would be worth owning just to look at. They are the height of femininity with all the pink tones and delicate embellishment but a splash of leopard print adds an unexpected edge.

When I hear 'Mulberry' the first thing that springs to mind is bags. Probably partly because several people I know are lusting after owning a Mulberry bag. But Mulberry do clothes too and they do them pretty well. The returning 'it colour' of the summer, white, forms the basis of the colour palette while prints pop in bright orange and black. Head to toe small scale floral prints work their magic on tailored summer separates.  
Classic and classy Emilia Wickstead's collection is seemingly effortless style. Following in the unfussy footsteps of the styles, the prints are simple. You can't fail with a good stripe. But add an unexpected  piano print in at the end and the mood is defined; polished, unfussy and modern.
If ultra modern digital floral prints are your thing look no further than Preen. A mish-mash of geometric pattern, floral prints, angular hemlines, fabrics and many colours come together so well. The digital print on chiffon is the last word in luxe or beautifully dressed down on easy separates. But aside from the busy prints, Preen proves its worth with print-less pieces focused on the sublime cuts and technique.
There's a lot of hype around JW Anderson at the moment. He certainly knows how to work with fabric, with pieces heavily focused on technique and cut the S/S 14 collection is a master class in clothes as a statement, even verging on wearable art. However much of the collection is more focused on design than wear-ability. Of course all the pieces are wearable in a sense but some of the pieces are hard to imagine actually being worn off the catwalk. But you can't deny his talent because when it comes to it, this is fabric manipulation at its very best.
In pretty pastel shades of blue and pink then moving into black and deeper pinks and green, the Whistles S/S 14 collection has a bit of something for everyone. A good one for flattering classics, although I'm not convinced about the shiny silver fabric.

I'm usually really in love with nearly every item in every Orla Kiely collection but I can't say this one has got me that excited. There's a strong safari feel to the collection and there are still some beautiful pieces but as a whole I think the collection hasn't quite got the retro mood right which is normally done so well.

The Jasper Conran S/S 14 collection is an absolute beauty. Modern and feminine the pieces make the perfect summer outfits with their exquisite patterns and coordinating colours. The pieces are very wearable and I love the details such as the sheer sleeves and lace inserts.

Images from

No comments:

Post a Comment