Friday, 27 September 2013

Fashion Friday: Milan Fashion Week

As promised last week here's my write up of several of the collections shown at Milan fashion week. Don't forget to look at Vogue for all of the collections if there's any particular collections you want to see.
Missoni, the label famous for wacky knitwear in bright colours do not disappoint with their S/S 14 collection. Their iconic knitwear was reworked into a large scale knit print and abstract patterns make a welcome change from the multitude of floral prints in the S/S shows. The colour combinations clash and compliment in equal measure and the monochrome designs that closed the collection prove Missoni can still create striking designs without the crazy colour palette.

Dolce & Gabbana is a firm favourite of mine, they do opulence and historical Italy references like no one else. There's a lot of similarity between the styles and silhouettes of each season collection with just a few tweaks here and there but I don't blame them; when you've done something so well, why change it? Its the prints and inspiration that are the changes between collections, for S/S 14 we have been presented with prints of historical ruins, elaborate florals, glittering gold fabrics and polka dots as well as a handful of their trademark lace just for good measure.

Clean lined, effortless, classic and fresh are words I would always associate with a Jil Sander collection. S/S 14 is totally in keeping with this. There's only a smattering of print placed between lustrous black, delicate pink and bright white fabrics. When plain fabrics make up the majority of a collection the main focus has to be on the construction and silhouette, shoulders are emphasized, waists nipped in and skirts gently flared.
The label for the powerful women who like making a statement, Roberto Cavalli S/S 14 is a riot of pattern, embellishment and fabric. But it is the mainly subdued colour palette that draws the collection together and allows it to be a tasteful way of statement dressing and not over the top.
A collection rendered almost entirely in black, brown and grey, the Bottega Veneta S/S 14 collection would be drab if it wasn't for the interesting details in the form of fringing, ruffles and beading. I must hasten to add though, the collection is not by any means fussy, the frills are executed in a unique style, creating a contemporary feel.
I'm sure everyone has an idea in their mind of how a Versace collection will look. This distinct style is again present, the collection is edgy and even the floral print and pastel colour can't even make the garments remotely girly. The clothes are still figure hugging, even if Donatella Versace says they're not (see Vogue summary). I would like to see the pieces more tasteful, as they say, less is not always more.
The Prada S/S 14 collection is as quirky as quirky gets. Gigantic faces appear on pretty much every type of garment alongside an absolute abundance of colour and embellishment. I can't helping thinking its all a bit too much though, there are a few less busy pieces which is just as well because many of the pieces are a combination of many different elements.
Fendi is not always a label I keep up to date with but I must say I was pleasantly surprised when I took a look at the S/S 14 collection. I do love to see a bit of geometric pattern and this is made even better if the pattern is created in an interesting way. The geometric pattern is made from shapes cut from a fabric with a pile, it may be velvet, I'm not entirely sure. The pops of bold colour are perfectly balanced with black and white. This is a collection full of surprise and as far from boring as a collection could be.
Relaxed and easy, nothing too fussy and loose silhouettes define the MaxMara S/S 14 collection. The collection began in off white and grey and then exploded in a burst of head to toe colour, then returned to the subdued tones. These are the kind of pieces which are perfect for teaming with more elaborate garments. But please take my advice, leave the bonnet and veil on the catwalk.
If your thing is pretty feminine style clothes, Alberta Ferretti is the one you want. I'm not sure any other collection could be as breathtakingly pretty as this one. The sumptuously embroidered bright flowers on white are so right for summer and even all black is given a girly update with frills and yes, more flowers. Plus, correct me if I'm wrong but I sense a quite folky feel to some of the pieces. With statement pieces in bright orange, green and red, there's something for every lover of feminine clothing here.
Gucci's collection is very relaxed in it's mood, nothing is too fitted or over embellished. There's a kind of throw on chic going on here. Prints are bold and colours are dark and moody, not what you'd first expect to be a S/S collection.

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