Erdem has taken a new turn. There's a darker side emerging from the signature floaty fabrics and feminine florals. This collection showed at London Fashion week a few weeks ago, but I couldn't miss the chance to write about the new collection. I remember writing about the last collection, S/S 14; commenting on how different it was. Now it seems that this change is here to stay. The florals are still there, but they're darker, the femininity is still there, but now its moody and edgy.
The collection includes a large amount of black, something which never featured in earlier collections and the patent black, snakeskin effect fabric certainly surprised me. At first I thought the collection was going to be entirely monochrome, as the last was, but there are splashes of colour throughout the collection. These colours are deep and rich, adding depth to the light chiffon and delicate florals.
Aside from all the change, some things have remained the same. Most notably, the quality and originality of the embellishment and fabric. Highly detailed cutwork creates intricate patterns over dresses and ordered, sparkling beading looks almost regal. This luxurious feeling is continued in the brocade floral fabrics. Of course, floral patterns are another Erdem trademark, only this time they feel more dramatic played out against black.
I like Erdem's new direction, it takes some getting used to, as it is so different to the previous collections. But as I looked through the images of each design, I became more and more excited by the embellishment, the cuts, the colours and realised just how brilliant the collection is. There may be a major change in design features, but the label has not lost any of its charm or quality. I urge you to go onto Vogue and look at the whole collection, and the close up photos, there are so many beautiful details you can't see in the whole-garment photos. Trust me, you do not want to miss out on this.
|The man behind the collection, Erdem Moralioglu|
Images from www.vogue.co.uk